The Problem:
The Traxxas 6S MAXX Slash is a high performance, high power short coarse race truck. Like similar high power models by Traxxas, they are sent out with plastic factory axles, in addition to being weaker than steel, they’re also assembled with pins and clips that are susceptible to being lost during use. Our own customer demo MAXX Slash suffered an axle failure on it’s first use. Some grass and debris knocked the c-clip off of the pin/joint that holds the axle together, this is a known issue with the Traxxas Slash models as well. In this article we’ll convert our MAXX Slash to the axle configuration it should have come with from the factory.
What We’re Doing:
We will be removing the factory plastic axles/driveshafts and replacing the bearings in the knuckles, adding steel drive cups to the differentials, installing the steel CV axle driveshafts, installing 17mm aluminum hex hubs and reinstalling the factory wheels with 17mm aluminum nuts.
The parts list:
- We will be using the Traxxas 8710 13 piece master tool set
- For tightening the hubs you will need a 17mm box end wrench
- You will need a Traxxas 5480X 17mm Splined Wheel Wrench
- We will be performing the work on our Traxxas 8797-BLUE X-Large truck work stand
- The axles/driveshafts are Traxxas 8950X HD Steel CV Axle Set
- The hubs are Traxxas 8654 17mm Splined Aluminum Wheels Hubs in Blue
- The wheel nuts are Traxxas 7758 17mm Splined Aluminum Wheel Nuts in Blue
Installation:
Fortunately this install is fairly easy and should take you less than 2 hours to complete. A lot of the parts we’re working with are identical left to right and front to back so we’ll be performing the work on all 4 corners at once.
We’ll drop the truck onto our work stand and remove the body.
Begin with an 8mm hex driver and remove all 4 wheels.
Next we’ll remove all 4 plastic wheel hub hex’s and the pins behind them. We just use a small flat head screw driver behind them, they pop forward and come right off.
Next we’ll need to remove all 4 driveshaft pin screws that hold the shafts to the differentials, these can be difficult to get to but we found it possible at the angles in the photos below using the Traxxas 2.0mm hex driver tool. Set the pins aside, we will not be reusing them, new ones come in the driveshaft kit with the steel drive cups.
With the driveshaft retaining pins removed we can remove the front and rear knuckles to remove the old ones completely and install the new ones. We started in the front, using a 2.5mm hex driver tool, remove the upper and lower screw pins and set them aside, they are the same length and size so there is no worry of mixing them up. Leave the steering tie rod links attached, you’ll be able to remove the knuckle with them on. In the rear, remove the upper and lower screw pins. These ARE different lengths, the shorter one is on top and the longer is on the bottom, do not mix these up.
The rear knuckles will pull right off, the front knuckles will stay attached to the steering links, just tilt, slide out and set them aside.
Then pull out all 4 driveshafts and set aside.
Next you will have to remove and set aside the inner and outer bearings in all 4 knuckles. The driveshaft kit has all new bearings, they’re a different size and will install directly into the trucks hubs. Bearings are all the same front/back and left/right. The only difference is inner and outer. The larger one is the inner for the back of the knuckle, the smaller ones install in the front of the knuckles.
Next you’ll need to take the new steel drive cups from the driveshaft kit and the new drive cup retaining pin screws that have pre applied blue thread locker. Just push them onto the differentials and install the pin screws with the same 2.0mm driver and tool orientation that you used to remove the old ones.
Next we’ll install the axles into place, they’re all the same, it doesn’t matter where they go, push them all the way into the cup. Then reinstall each knuckle pushing the end of each axle through the bearings and reinstall the upper/lower pin screws at all four corners.
Next we’re going to take our 17mm splined aluminum wheel hubs. In the package are the hubs, the steel pins and the pin retaining grub screws with pre applied thread locker. Turn the axle so that the retaining pin hole is facing straight left and right. Next slide each hub onto the end of each axle ensuring the retaining pin holes are aligned. Install the pin through the hole in the hub and axle. You’ll need to make sure this pin stays flush on both sides while tightening. If the pin protrudes on either side after tightening, you will not be able to install the wheels. Once the pin is flush, use a 2.0mm driver and install the grub screw into the center hole. You will need to use your 17mm box wrench to hold the hub while tightening the grub screw. Once tight, ensure the pin hasn’t move and that it isn’t protruding on either side.
Next we’ll install the wheels. There is a removeable piece in the center of each wheel, it just pops out. Once out it exposes a factory 17mm hub hole and a face for the 17mm nut. Push firmly and the wheels will snap back on. Take the blue aluminum nuts, the serrated side goes toward the wheel to keep it tight and tighten with your 17mm wheel nut tool, you may be able to use a thin wall 17mm socket if you don’t have the Traxxas tool. If you own a truck with factory 17mm nuts (Sledge, X-Maxx, XRT, etc.) than you should have one of these tools already, those trucks come with one.
